The Year in Wine by Eric Asimov

Eric Asimov is one of my favorite writers.  It helps that he writes about wine, a passion of mine. As important, though, is the way he writes about it. Eric’s writing reminds me of the great old style that you find in the work of Gerald Asher. That is a high complement indeed.

Image result for Gerald ASher

What is so great about it? Put most simply, when you start reading, you want to slow down and relax. You want to take the time to create a memory from your experience. You build loyalty to place and people who dedicate themselves to the craft of great wine making.

Eric has just written a piece on the ten favorite wine experiences he had this year. Check it out if you can. And you can use his list to remind yourself of great experiences that await!

  • etsina, a nonvintage Gaia Ritinitis Nobilis, was beautiful, bright and balanced with discernible piney highlights. It was absolutely delicious with my smoky, charred lamb and salad.
  • at Blue Ribbon Sushi Bar and Grill in Manhattan, I ordered a 2014 Bouzeron from Domaine A. & P. de Villaine. It’s a white Burgundy, but it’s made of the aligoté grape, which is often as reflexively despised as retsina.
  • Sipping the wine with Mr. Foti in Quattro Archi, a delightful osteria in the town of Milo, it was easy to imagine the days not so long ago when arduous farming, not tourism, was the primary work of Etna.
  • from the Jura, a 2014 Arbois Pupillin ploussard from Houillon-Overnoy, a red as pale as a dark rosé, made without sulfur dioxide, the stabilizer that is used almost universally in the wine industry.
  • in Montreal a 2013 Meursault Vireuils, a village wine from Domaine Roulot, one of Burgundy’s best white wine producers.
  • I have been intrigued by Francis Ford Coppola’s long-term plan to both reconstitute the historic Inglenook estate and recalibrate its flagship wine, Rubicon, toward elegance and balance.
  • just a week before Mr. Pontallier died, I spent a weekend in Atlanta, where I tasted 24 vintages of Château Margaux. It remains a fitting tribute to his life’s work there.
  • Domaine Armand Rousseau is one of the greatest red wine producers of Burgundy, renowned for its Gevrey-Chambertin. I was privileged in May to attend a lunch at the Nantucket Wine Festival where we drank a dozen Rousseaus.
  • a 1990 Château Haut-Brion Blanc, from one of the most historic producers in the Bordeaux region, and it may have been the best white Bordeaux I’ve ever had.
  • Fifty-two years later and feeling old, I was drinking 14 Barolos from the ’64 vintage at Maialino, a restaurant facing Gramercy Park, in November. One wine stood above the rest, the ’64 Barolo from Cantina Mascarello, an estate run by a father, Giulio Mascarello, who would hand it down to his son, Bartolo, who in turn would hand it to his daughter, Maria Teresa.


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